The saree is one of the most iconic and beloved garments from the Indian subcontinent. Draped in different styles across India, the saree can trace its origins back over 5000 years ago to the Indus Valley civilization. Through the centuries, the saree has evolved with influences from different regions and cultures, but remains an important part of Indian cultural identity.
This article will provide an overview of the most common saree fabrics used to create the traditional saree. We’ll explore some of the unique characteristics of fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, georgette, crepe, net and velvet. Understanding the qualities of these textiles can help guide saree selection and styling. From lightweight chiffons to regal silks, the array of saree fabrics allows for diverse aesthetics.
By learning about the different types of saree materials, readers will gain valuable insight into this cherished Indian garment. Whether reading for cultural interest or practical knowledge before purchasing a saree, this guide aims to inform and educate on the fabrics that make the saree so special. The rich tradition of the saree continues to be celebrated globally thanks to the range of textiles involved in its creation.
Here is a list of types of saree fabrics:
Cotton
Cotton is one of the most commonly used fabrics for sarees in India. It has a long history and tradition behind it.
Cotton was one of the earliest fabrics brought to India through trade with Egypt in ancient times. India’s tropical climate proved perfect for cultivating cotton. Fine muslin cotton fabrics were produced in places like Dhaka (modern-day Bangladesh) as early as the 1st century CE.
There are different varieties of cotton used for sarees:
- Mul cotton is a fine soft muslin cotton originally from the Bengal region. Mul sarees have a lovely lightweight drape.
- Muslin is lightweight plain weave cotton that originated in Mosul, Iraq. Indian muslin is called Malmal.
- Voile is a sheer lightweight cotton fabric.
- Organic cotton is cotton grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers. It’s more eco-friendly.
Cotton is highly breathable and comfortable to wear especially in India’s hot climate. Cotton fibers readily absorb moisture and allow heat to dissipate from the body.
The pros of cotton sarees are that they are:
- Comfortable, breathable, and suited for hot humid weather
- Absorbent and easy to wash and maintain
- Available in many prints, styles, and price ranges
The cons are that cotton:
- Wrinkles easily unless treated
- Can shrink if not pre-washed
- Is not very durable or resistant to tears compared to silk
Cotton remains one of the most beloved and commonly worn saree fabrics for its comfort, accessibility, and tradition. Indian women have been draping these breezy cotton sarees for centuries.
Silk
Silk has a long history in India dating back over 5,000 years. Sericulture, the practice of breeding silkworms and producing silk, first started in China and spread to India during the early centuries CE. India went on to become a major producer and the silk capital of the world for many centuries.
There are four main types of silk threads used to weave sarees in India:
- Mulberry silk – Made from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms that are fed mulberry leaves. This is the most common and finest type of silk.
- Tussar silk – Made from Antheraea mylitta silkworms that feed on oak and juniper leaves. Tussar silk has a coarse, dull gold sheen.
- Eri silk – Made from Samia ricini silkworms that feed on castor plants. Eri silk is not as fine but has a lovely warm feel.
- Muga silk – Made from Antheraea assamensis silkworms found only in Assam. Muga silk has a rich golden color.
Some unique properties of silk that make it perfect for sarees:
- Silk has a natural sheen and luxe look. The fibers can bend and reflect light beautifully.
- Silk is one of the strongest natural fibers but is still extremely soft and smooth.
- Silk is moisture absorbent, keeping the wearer cool in summer and warm in winter.
- Silk holds dye exceptionally well, allowing for bright, vivid colors.
Famous regional silk saree styles include Kanjivaram silks from Tamil Nadu, Banarasi silks from Uttar Pradesh, and Mysore silks from Karnataka. The patterns and weaving styles make each region’s silk sarees unique. Silk remains one of the most coveted and versatile materials for sarees in India.
Chiffon
Chiffon is a lightweight, plain-woven sheer fabric made from cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers. The name comes from the French word “chiffe” meaning rag or fluff.
Chiffon has an open, translucent weave that results in a lightweight, airy and flowing fabric. The threads used to weave chiffon are tightly twisted together before weaving, which gives chiffon its signature roughness and texture. This also makes it more durable than other sheer fabrics.
Chiffon became popular in the 1920s as a luxurious fabric used in gowns and evening dresses. It continues to be used frequently in sarees and blouses today. The lightweight and flowing nature of chiffon makes it ideal for draping in sarees. Popular chiffon saree styles include printed chiffon sarees and embroidered chiffon sarees. Chiffon Anarkali suits are also trendy.
The sheer quality of the chiffon makes it see-through. As a result, chiffon garments are often layered over an opaque lining or worn with a camisole or slip underneath. Chiffon fabric falls into elegant ripples and gathers, producing an ethereal, elegant effect in sarees and dresses. While chiffon creases easily, light ironing brings the fabric back to smoothness. Dry cleaning is recommended to clean chiffon garments.
Georgette
Georgette is a sheer, lightweight, drapable fabric with a slightly crisp texture and signature “crumpled” look. The history of georgette dates back to the early 20th century when it was first developed as a silk fabric in France. The name “georgette” comes from the French word “crêpe Georgette” meaning thin crepe.
Georgette became popular in the 1920s as a fabric used to make delicate blouses and dresses. Over time, georgette began to be produced using synthetic fibers like polyester and rayon in addition to silk. This made georgette more affordable and widely accessible as a fabric choice.
The crumpled texture of georgette comes from the fact that it is made with highly twisted yarns. The twisting process gives georgette its distinctive lightweight drape and wrinkled appearance. When used to make sarees, the fabric hangs gracefully and moves fluidly with the wearer’s body.
Georgette is a popular choice for sarees due to its breathability and versatility when it comes to draping styles. It can be draped in casual everyday styles as well as formal pleated drapes for occasions like weddings. Lighter georgette sarees with minimal embellishments are perfect for summers and hot weather. Luxurious embroidered and embellished georgette sarees make great festive and wedding wear.
Some latest georgette saree styles and trends include ruffled sarees, pre-pleated and half-half drapes, lightweight lehenga-styled sarees, and unique experimental drapes. Georgette is also commonly used to make cropped blouses and long billowy anarkalis paired with flowy sarees. Overall, georgette sarees range from casual everyday wear to ornate works of textile art.
Crepe
Crepe is a lightweight fabric with a crinkly surface texture. It is made using high twist yarns in the weaving process, which gives crepe its signature pebbly look and feel.
Crepe is valued for its beautiful drape and ability to hold pleats well. The crinkly texture also means crepe does not cling to the body, making it a comfortable fabric to wear, especially in warmer weather. Crepe can be made from natural fibers like silk and cotton, or synthetics like polyester and rayon.
Some popular types of crepe sarees include:
- Kanchipuram Silk Crepe Sarees – From Tamil Nadu, made with fine mulberry silk and zari work. Famous for their luxurious look and feel.
- Chanderi Cotton Crepe Sarees – Handwoven in Madhya Pradesh from lightweight cotton. A virtual breeze to wear.
- Georgette Crepe Sarees – Blended with georgette to add flow and transparency. Very dressy and feminine.
To care for crepe sarees, dry cleaning is recommended to preserve the fabric and avoid damage from rough handling. If hand washing, use a gentle detergent in cool water and avoid wringing or twisting the crepe while wet. Allow it to air dry fully before ironing on a low heat setting. With proper care, crepe sarees will retain their beautiful texture and drape for many wears.
Net
Net fabric is a type of woven fabric constructed with open spaces and holes in the structure. It’s made using plain weave techniques where the warp and weft threads cross over and under each other.
The open weave construction gives net fabric its hallmark sheer, lightweight, and airy qualities. When held up, you can easily see through net fabric. Despite the open weave, net fabric remains sturdy and durable.
Net was traditionally made from silk, but today it’s more commonly constructed from nylon or polyester. The synthetic fibers make net fabric more affordable and accessible. Net fabric can also incorporate metallic threads or jacquard weaving patterns for ornamental embellishment.
Net fabric is ideal for making light, airy garments that provide coverage while still allowing airflow. It’s commonly used to construct lehengas, gowns, and sarees. Net lehengas feature a short inner skirt with the long, dramatic net skirt overlay. Net gowns and sarees utilize the fabric for lightweight dupattas or pallus that enhance fluidity and movement.
The open weave structure makes net fabric easy to embellish with embroidery, sequins, beads, or other ornamentation. Heavy embroidery and embellishment provides weight that balances the lightweight transparency of the net. Net garments often feature beautiful, intricate hand embroidery or beading to highlight and enhance the sheer fabric.
Velvet
Velvet fabric originated in the Far East, and was later brought to Europe by Venetian merchants. The material quickly became associated with nobility and royalty across medieval Europe and Asia.
Velvet is known for its distinctive thick and soft texture. The lush feel comes from its woven structure, where the fabric is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of the fabric at the same time. The two layers are then cut apart to create the pile effect. This results in a fabric that has a rich, plush appearance and feels luxurious to the touch.
Velvet remains a popular choice for formal Indian wear. It drapes beautifully and has an air of luxury and sophistication. Velvet sarees typically feature ornate embroidery, since the fabric shows off detailed needlework well. They may incorporate zari, sequin or beadwork. Styles range from traditional paneled sarees to more modern solid-colored sarees. Lehengas and sherwanis made of velvet are also common for weddings and festivals.
The opulent look of velvet makes it well-suited for festive and bridal wear. Velvet sarees in rich jewel tones like emerald, ruby and sapphire blue are regal options. Intricate gold or silver brocade sarees also highlight the fabric’s elegance. For a modern twist, velvet sarees with bold prints or solid colors make stylish evening wear. Velvet fabric commands attention, so it creates an eye-catching statement when draped.
Comparisons of Saree Fabric Types
Each type of saree fabric has its own distinct characteristics and is suited for different occasions. Here’s a head-to-head comparison between the most popular fabrics:
Cotton vs Silk: Cotton is more breathable, absorbent, and affordable than silk. However, silk has a luxurious sheen and drape that cotton lacks. Silk is better for formal events and weddings, while cotton is ideal for daily casual wear.
Chiffon vs Georgette: Though both are light and airy fabrics, chiffon is more opulent while georgette has a crisp texture. Chiffon works well for sarees with heavy embroidery, while georgette is perfect for printed sarees that need a nice fall.
Crepe vs Net: Crepe is a heavier, thicker fabric with a subtle texture while net is lightweight and transparent. Crepe suits formal occasions and can hold pleats well. Net is commonly used for embellished partywear sarees.
Silk vs Velvet: Silk has a smooth, fluid drape while velvet is thicker with a plush feel. Silk is better suited for warmer weather while velvet adds drama during winter festivities and weddings.
When choosing between different saree fabrics, consider the weather, nature of the event, personal preference, and comfort. Lighter fabrics like chiffon and georgette are great for summers and day events. Heavier fabrics like velvet and crepe are ideal for winters and formal occasions. The beauty of the saree lies in how each fabric adds its own charm to this timeless Indian garment.
Conclusion
Throughout this article, we have looked at different types of fabrics used for sarees, including cotton, silk, chiffon, georgette, crepe, net, and velvet. Each fabric has its own unique characteristics that make it suitable for certain styles and occasions.
Cotton, for example, is known for its breathability, durability, and easy maintenance. It is a great choice for daily wear sarees that need to withstand frequent washing. Silk, on the other hand, drapes beautifully and has an elegant, luxurious look and feel. It is ideal for festive or ceremonial sarees.
Lightweight fabrics like chiffon, georgette, and crepe are flowy and airy, making them perfect for sarees with lots of pleats and movement. On the other hand, heavier fabrics like velvet have a regal look and work well for opulent, formal sarees. Additionally, net fabric adds a sensual appeal with its sheer, open weaves. These fabrics cater to different types of sarees, each offering unique qualities to enhance the overall look.
When choosing a saree fabric, it is important to consider the occasion, climate, personal preferences, ease of maintenance, and cost. The right fabric choice can make all the difference in draping, appearance, and comfort. Opt for natural breathable fabrics for summers and warmer climates. Go for richer fabrics for special occasions. Pick fabrics that hold shape well if draping style is important.
With so many options to choose from, every woman can find a saree style and fabric that flatters her unique personality and aesthetic sense. Knowing the characteristics of different saree fabrics helps make informed choices to look and feel your best. The versatility of the saree lies in mixing and matching fabrics with design elements to create stunning looks.
